Why Just About Everybody Should Be Using Retinol

People who’ve heard of retinol tend to fall into two categories: Those who are absolutely o-b-s-e-s-s-e-d with the stuff, and those who are too scared to try it after hearing one too many retinol rumors. Although it’s true that the ingredient can irritate your skin initially, dermatologists agree that alternatives pale in comparison to retinol’s near-magical results. After all, retinol addresses such a wide variety of skin complaints that it’s a wonder everybody—and we mean everybody—doesn’t use it.

What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a natural over-the-counter type of retinoid, a skincare ingredient that converts to retinoic acid—an active form of vitamin A—in the skin. “It’s been shown over and over again to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve tone and texture by increasing cell turnover and stimulating collagen production,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ashley Magovern, MD, medical director of Dermstore.

What Does Retinol Do?

A better question may be, “What doesn’t retinol do?” Afterall, the multi-purpose skincare ingredient practically moves mountains. With regular use, Dr. Magovern says retinol:

Prevents acne by making the skin less “sticky,” which helps keep pores clear of debris and build-up, allows oil to exit the hair follicles, and puts the kibbosh on inflammation.

Stimulates and accelerates cell turnover, which leads to cell renewal and brighter, smoother skin.

Stimulates collagen production to firm the skin and prevent laxity.

The Side Effects of Retinol—and How to Mitigate Them

If retinol is so ridiculously effective, you may be thinking, then why doesn’t everybody use it? The answer is redness, flakiness, itchiness, and peeling sometimes referred to as the “retinization period,” which can plague first-timers for about a month (sometimes more) and lead to what Dr. Magovern calls product abandonment.

Given the benefits of retinol and the fact that it’s clearly an active ingredient, it’s no wonder the skin responds initially with protest. The good news is that you don’t have to just grit and bear it: Just start slow with a mild formulation. “I often recommend starting two to three nights a week and increase usage as tolerated,” says Dr. Magovern. “If used with a moisturizer and in the correct amounts, you should be able to use it on a regular basis.”